Day 44 El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino - Zamora

From El Cubo to Zamora should have been a two day trek.  We decided to do in in one simply because we needed to stop over in Zamora for a day to sort out a few things.  My shoes have begun to disintegrate and James is rushing a new pair to me hopefully to reach us in a town called Puebla de Sanabria which we hope to reach in about 8 days time.  There are very few post offices on the way and one has to rely on stopping in the bigger towns to find one.  Some, like the Puebla de Sanabria one only open in the morning so by the time one reaches it on the daay, the post oiffice is closed and then you have to wait until they open the following day etc!  Nothing is simple - they keep telling me it's part of the experience of walking the Camino!

The path from El Cubo was in part one of the nicest we have been on.  All along the route we had plenty of wild flowers alongside the path, and a variety of fields planted with barley and wheat.  Also the young shoots of large sunflower plantations were beginning to show.  We also came across a few small vineyards - this area used to be a major wine growing region until some problem devastated all the vines.

The terrain was more varied than the previous days with flat plains on the left and rolling hills on the right.  At one point as we climbed over a hill, it reminded us of the view of the Surrey countryside from Box Hill.  The fields had a lush green colour more reminiscent of the English countryside than Spain!

We stopped for a cup of coffee after about 8 miles in the village of Villanueva de Campeon.  There was unfortunately nowhere else to stop for the next 14 miles or so and we were extremely tired by the time we had our first view of Zamora.  The entrance to Zamora is very impressive as we hope our photos show.  Today for part of the way we walked with a new friend, Herman from Germany.  Like all good Germans he likes the odd glass of beer so he joined us for a glass once we reached our destination.

The Albergue in Zamora is new, free and offers a free breakfast - what a change to others we have been to!

Today we are relaxing in the city getting ready for the next few sages of our walk.  In about three days time we have a very difficult week or so ahead.   We will need to climb two of the highest mountains in this region which rise to 4455 feet and 4150 feet, the two highest peaks on our entire journey.

The days are very long as well with distances of over twenty miles.  We hope our feet, legs and every other part of our bodies will be up to the challenge.  Whose idea was this anyway???????????????????????

Day 43 Salamanca - El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino

Today we had decided to have a relatively quiet relaxed day and only walk about 10 miles.  In the end we did about 22!  We started around 0700 and we reached our destination for the day at 1100.  We thought we could do better and set off to try and finish at El Cubo.  It was a mistake!

While the first 10 miles had been very pleasant, walking along fields of Barley and Wheat, the next 12 were either on or alongside the N630.  Just mile after mile of roads.  No trees, no shade and no bars on the way!  The only respite we had was stopping to talk to Robin at Brooklands FM Radio for our weekly live broadcast.

Eventually we staggered into El Cubo at around 6.00p.m.

I am glad to say that after a good shower at our Albergue, we enjoyed a communal meal with the other walkers to round off a very tiring day. Everyone mucked in to make spaghetti and salad!  I must say we enjoy getting together with the others every evening to compare notes and have a laugh or two,

Tomorrow we have another hard day with about 18/19 miles ahead of us.  Which reminds me.....I have to go to bed!.........see you tomorrow

Day 42 Rest day in Salamanca

After a good night's sleep we have decided to rest over in Salamanca for a day.  We are feeling very tired and it will also give my left foot a day of rest which we hope will do the trick.

The good news today is that we have achieved another milestone in our journey.  We have now walked over 500 miles.  It seems incredible to us that we have made it this far!  It has been an amazing experience so far and we have enjoyed every minute (well almost!).

The sad news today is the imminent departure of our friend Katrin.  She has been walking with us for about 10 days and been very much part of our lives for that short period of time.  She is a sweet girl, a social worker in Cologne, Germany and she has been both a friend and our guide as well.  She has this fantastic guidebook and we shall miss her daily instructions....."after 700 metres is coming the road and we have to turn not to the left but to the other side......then after 3.5 km is coming the willage......!

We shall also miss not sharing her customary evening meal of cheese and tomatoes.  She has promised to come to the UK sometime to visit us and in the meantime we wish her safe journey to Germany via Madrid where she is hoping to buy some "proper" clothes and also to stock up on some Spanish goodies.

The thing we will remember most about her is her good sense of humour.  She has made the weary miles more tolerable by her constant laughter.  Katrin, if you read this, thank you for everything.  We will miss you.

This evening we met in the Plaza Mayor with Katrin and also with some of our French friends, Anne, Didier, Collette and Claude and also with our Italian friend Ana.  Everyone except Ana and of course Ana Maria and I are leaving to go back home tomorrow.  Ana will be carrying on to Zamora so we are sure to see her again soon.  Earlier today we met Jung Mi, a South Korean girl we met a few days ago and who had been taken ill.  She is now recovered but will stay in Salamanca until Sunday.  She plans top continue to Santiago and as she walks very fast she is sure to catch up with us soon!

Salamanca is as beautiful as we remembered.  The photos can speak for themselves.

Tomorrow we continue to Zamora which we hope to reach in 3 days time.

Day 41 San Pedro de los Rozados - Salamanca

(posted a day late)

Today was a beautiful day for walking.  Sunny with a light cool breeze.  We set off at 7.15a.m. (we had intended to leave at 6.15a.m. but the hostal owners had locked us in and did not appear to open the door until 7.00a.m.  About 5 kms from San Pedro we stopped at the little village of Miranda de Azan where we had the cheapest breakfast yet on the Camino at a local bar.

We also had one of the warmest welcomes - what a contrast to the owners of the Hostal VII Carreras - who were just interested in how much they could charge us for anything and everything!  (Shortly afterwards\we found a sandal on the path which we assumed had been dropped by one of the pilgrims in front of us.  I carried it in my rucksack and left it at the Albergue in Salamanca where I hope someone has claimed it!)

We later read that near this village Wellington in command of the 3rd Allied Division defeated the French Thomieres Division in the battle of Arapiles on 22nd July 1812.

The path wound its way along long plains where the bales of hay had just been gathered.  Some 5 kms later on the brow of a small hill, stood the cross of Santiago and behind it, in the distance, the beautiful city of Salamanca.   There we came across Ana, an Italian girl who has been travelling the same route as us and who we meet practically every night at one Albergue or another!

It took another 4 kms to reach the city centre and its Cathedral, where we arrived at 1.15p.m. having entered over the Roman bridge spanning the river Tormes.  As soon as we checked in to our hotel the skies opened and Salamanca was drenched!  Today we have been lucky with the weather!

Day 40 Fuenterroble de Salvatierra - San Pedro de los Rozados

After a free breakfast of coffee, bread, ham and chorizo we set off at 0715 hrs for San Pedro, 18.6 miles away.  The most daunting thing ahead was the climb to 3600 feet of the Pico de la Duena.  My left foot was still troubling me although the hour I spent massaging it with an anti-inflammatory gel, paid off!

The road was at first along the old "Calzada Romana, or old Roman road, which is currently being excavated.  It was interesting to see how the road was built up in various layers.  Characteristically, the road was straight for several miles after which we had to climb fairly steeply up 1.86 miles to the Pico de la Duena.  This was without doubt one of the most strenuous things we have had to do on this journey but the views from the top were truly amazing.  My thanks to Ana Maria and to Katrin for their encouragement as we went up and they could see I was dragging my left foot a bit!

The path on the other side of the  mountain decended sharply also for nearly two miles and we were amazed to see two pilgrims running down the hillside, complete with backpacks!  I'm glad to say we took a more gingerly approach.  After that the path levelled off and we followed a very straight tarmac road for several miles before arriving at San Pedro de Rozados.  Needless to say this was the old Roan road which has been resurfaced with tarmac.  Such a shame but I guess inevitable.

In San Pedro we had intended to stay at the Albergue there.  There was room for 9 people but only one small shower, which had water sloshing all over the floor.  Ana Maria and I were very tired and we decided to try a local Hostal, "VII Carreras" the only other accommodation in the village.  The accommodation was good but they ripped us off to such an extent that I was very angry.

We found nevertheless that the hostal was one of two places where we could get a reasonable telephone connection, the other being the church at the other end of the village!  We wanted to speak with Celine who was celebrating her 30th birthday.  She and her boyfriend Alan are in the process of buying their first house together and naturally she is very excited at the prospect.  We send them both our love.  We also managed to speak to James, who had just returned from Italy where he had gone to a friend's wedding with Kate his girlfriend.  He was just about to update the map on our blog and wanted to know where we were!  He is arranging to buy me a new pair of hiking shoes as mine are slowly disintegrating!  We also managed to speak with Doris  Ana Maria's mother in Argentina through the magic of Skype.

Tomorrow we will be on our way to Salamanca!

Day 39 - Calzada de Bejar - Fuenterroble de Salvatierra

We were not very happy with the prices being charged at the Albergue for breakfast and so we decided to take our chances and seek somewhere en route. On exiting the village we noticed once again the balconies which the houses display, some dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries.   Our first stop at Valverde de Valdecasa provided a bar which unfortunately for us closes on Tuesdays!  Finally we found one in Valdecasa where we were able to have a lovely coffee!  As you can see we value our small pleasures!

Continuing on our journey we criss-crossed all the way with our friends from France and Italy.  The path was somewhat like yesterday and climbed gradually and at times quite sharply to about 3000 feet.  My left foot has been troubling me today again and we are quite worried about tomorrow when we have to walk over 18 miles plus we have to climb the “Pico de la Duena” at 3600 feet!  Wish us luck.

Along the way we came across a plaque placed there by the winners of the Spanish Women’s Basketball League in 1996.  This brought back memories for Ana Maria who used to play Basketball for the Argentine National Team and also for one of the top Spanish teams when we lived in Madrid.  along the way Robert had to stop to have his customary chat with some animal or other, this time a beautiful horse!

With about one mile to go it tarted raining and we had to quickly don our ponchos which we had kept handy as the storm clouds gathered!.  At around 12.30p.m. we arrived at the Albergue Fuenterroble de Salvatierra.  The chief Hospitalero here is the legendary Fr. Blas who is well known throughout the Via de La Plata.  Our dorm is now full with 18 pilgrims with others coming in all the time to fill the other dorms.

Day 38 Aldeanueva del Camino - Calzada de Bejar

At 6.00a.m. Ana Maria and I were on the road again this time heading for Banos de Montemayor, our first stage of our walk today to Calzada de Bejar.  The way to Banos is unfortunately along the N630 and therefore quite boring and tiring. Banos de Montemayor used to house Roman Thermal Baths.  Today this is the main business of the town which boasts more hotels than all the other villages we've passed put together!  Shortly after leaving Banos we also left Extremadura and entered Castilla y Leon.

Katrin decided that she would skip these 10 kms of road and opted to go on the bus instead.  We therefore waited for her in Banos until her arrival at 0930.  We then needed some medical supplies and of course the chemist  did not open until 10.30a.m.!


At around 11.00 we set off for our first challenge of the day, the Puerto de Bejar which climbs to 3100 feet.   The path on the whole was very good and easy on the feet.  I therefore did not have too much trouble with my left heel, which although painful was not unduly so.

 The scenery was breathtaking!  Once we got to the mountain pass the path turned into rolling meadows littered with rocky outcrops and some huge boulders.  In the distance on our far right we could see the snow covered mountain tops of what we think are the Sierra de Gredos.  Really incredible views.  The last two kilometres or so were up what I call rocky goat tracks and were a little bit more demanding.  All in all a delightful hike today!

The village of Calzada de Bejar boasts 84 inhabitants and an Albergue, where we are spending the night.  So far we think there are about 16 "pilgrims" here tonight.  There is only one bar in town where we had a sandwich for lunch and tonight the Hospitaleros are going to cook an evening meal.

Tomorrow we will head for Fuenterroble de Salvatierra, where we hope to spend the night at a monastery which doublkes up as an Albergue.  I understand it is free and comes  possibly with an evevning meal!  Meals are an important event each day.  Anyone who knows me well will kmow that I normally love eating.  Here after\the exhaustion of the walks each day, food is an essential tool in getting back some energy for the following day.  That's my excuse anyway and I regret to say that contrary to what I thought at the beginning, I am NOT losing any weight!  It is true to say however that Ana Maria and I have never felt fitter!

James is now back from his short interlude in Italy so we hope the map is going to be updated shortly.  We are delighted that so many people wrote in to ask that it be updated so that they could see where we are!



More soon.