Saturday 5 June 2010

Day 49 Santa Marta de Tera - Rio Negro del Puente

Today we set off at 0550hrs from our Albergue at Santa Marta to cover 17 miles.  Although the path climbs to 2700 feet it does so very gradually so it was not too bad.  The first 10 miles or so were very pleasant, walking through woods and following the river Tera, a major river in these parts.



 HyeRyung in her distinctive yellow sweatshirt followed us and then overtook us as she normally does!



We headed for the village of Calzadilla de Tera to have a cup of coffee - yes, you've guessed it, the bar was closed.  We then carried on to Olleras de Tera, where we were told that the bar owner was an elderly gentleman who never got up before 10.00a.m.!  We gave up the idea of coffee and thought we would buy some juice at a local shop instead.  Uh, uh! No shops either!  Having given up the idea of breakfast we headed for Rio Negro where a nice Albergue awaited us.


We had intended to walk along a reservoir for most of the way but the locals warned us that the path was impassable and at best was in very bad condition.  We therefore decided to walk alonmg an irrigation canal first and then on the N525, which was slightly tedious but not too bad on the feet.  Temperatures rose to 35 dgrees!



At 12.30p.m. we stopped on the outskirsts of Rio Negro for our weekly live interview with Brooklands FM Radio.  Just before entering the village we stopped to chat to some of the local fishermen, fishing for "bogas" in the local river.Shortly after we were in our Albergue in Rio Negro which has 28 beds.  There are only 4 of us!  Ana Maria and I, our Norwegian friend, Sverre and our young S. Korean friend HyeRyung.  We  had some excitement as Sverre spotted a large rat lurking in a drawer on the ground floor.  The husband of the local Hospitalera was called and duly disposed of the rat!  I offered to do this, of course, but local union rules forbid foreigners from tackling such sensitive tasks!

This village was the seat of the Confraternity of the Falifos, one of the oldest in Spain and which at its height had 11 hospitals looking after the poor and pilgrims.  Losada, the founder of the City of Caracas, was born in this village.

Tomorrow we hope for a shorter walk, only about 13 miles, to the Albergue at San Salvador de Palazuelo.

The following day we hope to reach Puebla de Sanabria where with a bit of luck we will collect the new shoes (and insoles for Ana Maria) which James has rushed to us.

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