WE ARE BACK (WELL, ALMOST!)
For the last couple of days we have found it impossible to post any updates for which we apologise. We have been plagued by heavy rain, loss of all telephone communications and I ran out of credit on my Moviestar dongle! Finding somewhere to re-charge has been impossible until today. Now I find that the connection is so weak that we are unable to post any photos. Consequently we are updating the blog but the photos will need to follow, hopefully after we get to Orense tomorrow afternoon.
DAY 55 A Gudinha - Campobecerros
The last two days it has rained very heavily. In parts of Asturias quite close to the Galician border and not far from where we are, there has been extensive flooding. We have read today that heavy goods traffic between Asturias and Galicia has been suspended due to flooding and the bad state of the roads.
It was with some trepidation that we set off this morning from A Gudina, expecting more rain. Luckily this did not materialise and although at times overcast, windy and cold, the weather was not bad.
The bad news today is that our friend Karl has had to leave us for a few days. I reported yesterday that he had some pain in his left foot. He had this checked out by a local doctor and it appears that he has an infection in his foot and has to rest it for a few days. Consequently, he was taking the train this morning to Ourense where, with a bit of luck we can meet up again in about three to four days.
Today we have been walking on and off with our Italian friends, Paolo, Giovanni and David, our Danish friend, Nina, the two Argentine girls Mariela and Patricia. The latter are pressed for time and have gone on to Laza while we decided to stop over here in Campobecerros, some 20 kms into what is a 36km trek!
The going was good, travelling partly on minor roads but for the first time in days also cross country. Although it has also rained here quite heavily, the ground is rockier and the paths were quite passable.
The scenery was breathtaking! Walking among the hills mostly covered in heather, it was reminiscent of parts of Scotland.
Practically the whole way we were walking at a height of over 3200 feet looking down on the valleys below! We went through a number of hamlets, Venda do Espoino, Venda Teresa, Venda Capela and Venda Bolanos.
Soon after leaving Venda Teresa we came across the fantastic “Embalse de las Portas”, a vast expanse of water nestling in the valley below framed by beautiful mountains. Truly nature at its best! The descent to Campobecerros was very tough. The path falls about 700 feet from the hills above to the village below, via a very rugged, uncomfortable, rocky path, which wreaks havoc with your feet!
We are now relaxing in our Hostal, Casa Nunez, the only one in town. It is comfortable although quite cold. It seems that the central heating only comes on in winter! The owners are very nice if a trifle uncommunicative. For example, we asked if they did lunch. The old lady told us that she would ask the cook and went off. She then came back and totally ignored us for about 15 minutes. She then went off again, returned and told us that we could go into the restaurant area. As we went in our meal was already on the table! No one had even asked us what we wanted! As it turned out we had a nice meal. At the next table sat the whole family, all 10 of them eating exactly what we were eating!
This afternoon the sun came out for the first time in days and we went for a wander around the village, talking to several of the locals, who are very friendly. There is a beautiful stream flowing through the bottom of the village, which was overflowing due to the heavy rains.
A strange-looking statue in the village recalls the local carnival where the “peliqueiros” dress up in some sort of costume and go through the streets imposing their will by wielding a small whip!
Tomorrow we have a relatively short day – only about 12 miles – to the village of Laza, where we will stay at the local Albergue. After that there will only be another 55 kms to go to Ourense, with Santiago de Compostela only another 110 kms beyond that!
The camino greeting of “buen camino” has now changed to the Galician “Ultreia!”
DAY 56 Campobecerros - Laza
Casa Nunez turned out to be a very cheap place to stay. A double room, lunch and dinner, a couple of beers and 6 “chupitos” for only 60 Euros. Best value for a while. Shame about England drawing with USA, a win would have crowned the day nicely!
On the outskirts of Porto Camba we came across the cross that was erected there to commemorate all those pilgrims who have died on the Camino over the years. After Porto Camba we continued through pine forests but still with a view of the surrounding mountains.
From As Eiras we continued to Laza which thankfully was a nice gradual descent. The Albergue in Laza is quite modern with excellent facilities, a good example of Galician standards! We had d lunch at Bar La Picota where Angeles cooked us one of the best meals we have had on the Camino, for a reasonable 9 Euros each.
This evening we have to decide if tomorrow we do 20 kms to Vilar de Barrio or if we continue for another 14 kms to Xunqueira de Ambia. The latter alternative although longer would then leave us just 22 kms away from Ourense the day after tomorrow. I guess we will set off early and then see how we feel when we get to Vilar de Barrio.
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